Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Eilat

We went down last weekend to the Eilat area for a barmitzvah at kibbutz Ketura, which is about 30 min north of Eilat. We had a great time, although the temp was above 40 deg C (over 100 deg F) most of the time. It was like being in an oven, although a/c makes life bearable. We stayed in their guest house, which was a nice little modern motel.
Ketura is one of the few successful kibbutzim because it is diversified (see www.ketura.org.il). Along the Arava Valley between Ketura and Eilat are dense growths of palm trees from which dates are harvested. Also, they produce fish, particularly salmon, in ponds near the Red Sea, and they grow red algae that are both used to feed the salmon and to extract a product that is used in cosmetics and other products worldwide.
There is also the famous Arava Institute for Environmental Studies, an ecology school that was started by Alon Tal, who is now organizing a new green party for the next Knesset elections. There is already a Green Party, but he wants a new one that is both more professional and more serious, and that is not so left-wing. Whether or not his party will succeed is questionable, but since the Pensioner's Party won 7 seats at the last election in its first try, everybody wants to have a specialist party to get into the Knesset.
In the kibbutz, we noticed some black Africans. Several of them are Sudanese refugees, mostly children, who have been adopted by the kibbutz, and two have been adopted by one couple. It was amazing to see how fluent they were in Hebrew playing with the other children in the pool. Also, there were several Ethiopian workers on the kibbutz.
On Sunday after the barmitzvah we drove down to Eilat and wandered around a bit. It was so hot that we were glad to take refuge in a modern airconditioned mall. I counted at least 14 large hotels, making Eilat the largest resort in Israel. Eilat is unique in that it has grown so fast that the airport is now literally in the center of the city. There is the south beach and the north beach and the airport is in between. The planes land and take off as if between the hotels. It seems very dangerous but no accident has occurred to my knowledge.
We went out on a boat that had been hired for the barmitzvah, and it was great. We took a cruise of the Eilat bay. Aqaba is right next door, and although we didn't cross the line, we could see it very clearly. It has definitely developed since we visited there about 10 years ago. There is good cooperation between Eilat and Aqaba, especially in the marine area, and there is talk of the two countries Jordan and Israel building a new joint international airport for the two cities. It makes economic sense, but maybe not political sense yet.
We drove back in two stages, stopping as usual in Beersheva, which is about half way (each stage about 2-2.5 hours). The road is long and the scenery dramatic but also tedious, since from Eilat to Beersheva there is almost nothing, no greenery, few settlements and no people. It is desolate, but distinct. The Ramon crater is very stark and beautiful and the scene from Mitzpe Ramon is exhilerating, but for weary travellers it was good to get home and rest.

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