Jack's travel tips
I'm back! We are home safely after a wonderful holiday in Italy, where we shared an apartment for a week with our two kids and their families in Florence and then spent a week by ourselves in Sorrento.
This was a great experience and an amazing vacation. Since we had been to Florence a few years ago we know it quite well and so we were happy to find a large apartment to accomodate 10 people (6 adults, four children) in the center of Florence, within 10 min walking distance of all the main sites (Piazza del Signoria, Duomo, San Croce and the Synagogue). This apt. was on two levels and was on the top floors of a large building with a supermarket on the ground floor. It was also close to the Chabad House and a supermarket with some kosher food as well as a vegetable/fruit market. Fortunately there was no problem between our reform and orthodox families regarding kashrut.
Since we had been to all the main galleries before, we tended to take it easy while the families went to the Uffizi and the Accademia (they are so crowded) and then we all went on a day outing to Siena and St. Gimigiano (with the famous high rises).
The apt. was perfect of its kind, furnished in typical Italian fashion, with large couches, many paintings on the walls, and a great view of the Duomo. There was a toilet/shower with each of the four bedrooms and the two boys slept on the couch or mattresses on the floor. However, although it had air conditioning, the power was not enough to keep the 7 air conditioners running full blast all the time. Every time the power went out someone had to go down by elevator five floors to turn the power switch (fuse) back on. We complained about this, but there was nothing to be done except turn several air conditioners lower or off.
After spending time with all the family we went down to Sorrento, where we stayed in a wonderful hotel, with an excellent breakfast, and each day we went somewhere, to Pompeii, Capri (by boat), Amalfi (what a drive!), Herculaneum and Naples. I won't bother you with all the details, but here are some observations on travel, in no particular order.
1. Never change a reservation within a month of a vacation: When we arrived at Naples airport, I was told that my reservation for a rental car had been cancelled! What had happened is that the travel agent had ordered a manual (stick-shift) car, and I asked her to change it to automatic. It seems that you can't simply change a reservation, it had to be cancelled, but no new one was substituted in time. Luckily they had the exact car that I requested, and I was able to pay with my credit card. Later I sent an e-mail to the travel agent and she got them to issue a new invoice and all was well.
2. If your luggage is damaged, complain immediately: Our luggage did not arrive on our flight from Rome to Florence, but arrived later. In order to make sure that we actually got it, we went to the airport and picked it up ourselves. We noted that the top pocket of our large suitcase was torn away and the handle mechanism was broken. But, we were so glad to get the luggage and didn't want to spend more precious vacation time standing on line, that we took it. Later when we complained they told us that since we did not make a complaint when we received it, it was too late. One helpful attendent told us simply to make a complaint when we arrived at our final destination. We did this and they issued a complaint voucher very efficiently at BG airport.
3. Dept. of specialized information: I know the exact location of every gelleteria in Sorrento. If anyone wants a recommendation try "Bougainvillea" on Corso d'Italia.
4. Necessities: Always travel with the two main necessities, water and chocolate. It was tremendously hot in Italy in August (90-100 deg F) and touring historic sites was draining. It helps to have an umbrella for the sun and an insulated water bottle holder (we forgot ours!). We also found that lemon soda was the best thirst quencher.
5. Beware thiefs: We met two Australians who had been victims of theft. One man was taking the train and was helped with his luggage by what he supposed was a porter. On the train two women were helpful in getting his luggage on the rack, and he thanked them. When the train left he noticed that they were not there and the zips on his fanny pack were open and that his wallet was gone with $800. He realized that the "porter" had steered him to the women who were waiting there, one unzipped the zips and the other extracted the wallet. Luckily he had his passport and a single credit card elsewhere. Another lady decided to put her video camera, her still camera and her cell phone together in a bag so that she could keep an eye on them. She sat down and was in conversation when they vanished. Moral of of this story, disperse your assets, it makes it harder for the thief. Also, try not to be Australian.
6. Searching for Caravaggio: I had decided to seek out paintings by Caravaggio. As some of you may know he was a violent drunkard and got into many brawls and was often arrested. So it is surprising that he managed to complete the 74 paintings attributed to him. He was forced to flee Rome in 1606 after being accused of homosexualty and murder. He spent some years in Naples where he painted several masterpieces, but was then forced to flee to Malta and subsequently again to Sicily. He returned to Naples in 1610 where he was stabbed by the brother of a former victim. He escaped again, but was so badly wounded that he was left to die on a beach at the age of 37. I read up on him and found that there were some paintings by him in Naples. We drove to what was the Museum of Fine arts on our map, but it was in fact the National Archeological Museum, with the remains taken from Pompeii and Herculaneum (well worth seeing), but no Caravaggios. So the next time we went into Naples on our last Sunday we tried the Castel Nuevo (closed ), then the Royal Palace (no Caravaggios), but a helpful docent told us to go to the Museum Pio Monte della Misericordia on Via Tribunali where there was the largest collection of Caravaggios in Naples. On the map this looks like a major road, but it was in fact a very narrow one way lane. By the time we arrived and managed to park, it was 2.20 pm, the museum closed normally at 2.30 pm, but on Sunday at 2 pm! Result, no Caravaggios. Maybe next time, now that I've done the research. By the way, someone has already written a book about searching for Caravaggio's paintings.
This was a great experience and an amazing vacation. Since we had been to Florence a few years ago we know it quite well and so we were happy to find a large apartment to accomodate 10 people (6 adults, four children) in the center of Florence, within 10 min walking distance of all the main sites (Piazza del Signoria, Duomo, San Croce and the Synagogue). This apt. was on two levels and was on the top floors of a large building with a supermarket on the ground floor. It was also close to the Chabad House and a supermarket with some kosher food as well as a vegetable/fruit market. Fortunately there was no problem between our reform and orthodox families regarding kashrut.
Since we had been to all the main galleries before, we tended to take it easy while the families went to the Uffizi and the Accademia (they are so crowded) and then we all went on a day outing to Siena and St. Gimigiano (with the famous high rises).
The apt. was perfect of its kind, furnished in typical Italian fashion, with large couches, many paintings on the walls, and a great view of the Duomo. There was a toilet/shower with each of the four bedrooms and the two boys slept on the couch or mattresses on the floor. However, although it had air conditioning, the power was not enough to keep the 7 air conditioners running full blast all the time. Every time the power went out someone had to go down by elevator five floors to turn the power switch (fuse) back on. We complained about this, but there was nothing to be done except turn several air conditioners lower or off.
After spending time with all the family we went down to Sorrento, where we stayed in a wonderful hotel, with an excellent breakfast, and each day we went somewhere, to Pompeii, Capri (by boat), Amalfi (what a drive!), Herculaneum and Naples. I won't bother you with all the details, but here are some observations on travel, in no particular order.
1. Never change a reservation within a month of a vacation: When we arrived at Naples airport, I was told that my reservation for a rental car had been cancelled! What had happened is that the travel agent had ordered a manual (stick-shift) car, and I asked her to change it to automatic. It seems that you can't simply change a reservation, it had to be cancelled, but no new one was substituted in time. Luckily they had the exact car that I requested, and I was able to pay with my credit card. Later I sent an e-mail to the travel agent and she got them to issue a new invoice and all was well.
2. If your luggage is damaged, complain immediately: Our luggage did not arrive on our flight from Rome to Florence, but arrived later. In order to make sure that we actually got it, we went to the airport and picked it up ourselves. We noted that the top pocket of our large suitcase was torn away and the handle mechanism was broken. But, we were so glad to get the luggage and didn't want to spend more precious vacation time standing on line, that we took it. Later when we complained they told us that since we did not make a complaint when we received it, it was too late. One helpful attendent told us simply to make a complaint when we arrived at our final destination. We did this and they issued a complaint voucher very efficiently at BG airport.
3. Dept. of specialized information: I know the exact location of every gelleteria in Sorrento. If anyone wants a recommendation try "Bougainvillea" on Corso d'Italia.
4. Necessities: Always travel with the two main necessities, water and chocolate. It was tremendously hot in Italy in August (90-100 deg F) and touring historic sites was draining. It helps to have an umbrella for the sun and an insulated water bottle holder (we forgot ours!). We also found that lemon soda was the best thirst quencher.
5. Beware thiefs: We met two Australians who had been victims of theft. One man was taking the train and was helped with his luggage by what he supposed was a porter. On the train two women were helpful in getting his luggage on the rack, and he thanked them. When the train left he noticed that they were not there and the zips on his fanny pack were open and that his wallet was gone with $800. He realized that the "porter" had steered him to the women who were waiting there, one unzipped the zips and the other extracted the wallet. Luckily he had his passport and a single credit card elsewhere. Another lady decided to put her video camera, her still camera and her cell phone together in a bag so that she could keep an eye on them. She sat down and was in conversation when they vanished. Moral of of this story, disperse your assets, it makes it harder for the thief. Also, try not to be Australian.
6. Searching for Caravaggio: I had decided to seek out paintings by Caravaggio. As some of you may know he was a violent drunkard and got into many brawls and was often arrested. So it is surprising that he managed to complete the 74 paintings attributed to him. He was forced to flee Rome in 1606 after being accused of homosexualty and murder. He spent some years in Naples where he painted several masterpieces, but was then forced to flee to Malta and subsequently again to Sicily. He returned to Naples in 1610 where he was stabbed by the brother of a former victim. He escaped again, but was so badly wounded that he was left to die on a beach at the age of 37. I read up on him and found that there were some paintings by him in Naples. We drove to what was the Museum of Fine arts on our map, but it was in fact the National Archeological Museum, with the remains taken from Pompeii and Herculaneum (well worth seeing), but no Caravaggios. So the next time we went into Naples on our last Sunday we tried the Castel Nuevo (closed ), then the Royal Palace (no Caravaggios), but a helpful docent told us to go to the Museum Pio Monte della Misericordia on Via Tribunali where there was the largest collection of Caravaggios in Naples. On the map this looks like a major road, but it was in fact a very narrow one way lane. By the time we arrived and managed to park, it was 2.20 pm, the museum closed normally at 2.30 pm, but on Sunday at 2 pm! Result, no Caravaggios. Maybe next time, now that I've done the research. By the way, someone has already written a book about searching for Caravaggio's paintings.
posted by Jack Cohen at 11:31 AM
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